Subaru Sti Wrx Oil Feed Line

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBrandon

Noticed on the 08 WRX the oil feed line appears to go completely under the intake manifold and too somewhere else. I was hoping to use a steel braided line but it appears more mods would be necessary to make this work.

Am I missing something? Is the current OEM line ok to use with bigger turbo? If using the OEM line is there anything I should be aware of when putting the stock banjo bolt back in? How do you know the holes mate up? Started working on this yesterday and was up until 4am took a few hours break and been back at it. Stuck currently. Thanks guys!!

Hey dude! I did that mod during my turbo swap.........

I have a hybrid oil line. I bought the P&L line but it was just, and I mean just, long enough to go reach the turbo and the AVCS on the right side cylinder head. So I bought FP's oil line and saw that its construction was superior to P&L's. So I used the FP to go from the block to the turbo and then I used the longer of the P&L line to go from the block to the AVCS.

It was really hard to get out the POS stock oil line, so I used a combination of metal cutters and pliers and brute force to remove the stocker from the block.

When I do my next turbo swap, I'm buying another FP line to replace the P&L line that feeds the right side AVCS.

I also bought the service manual that will answer a lot of your questions...
Be AWARE of this: unless you're using a ball bearing turbo then USE the stocker banjo bolt on the turbo!! I used a banjo bolt with a little bigger oil passage in it, and the turbo was so flooded with oil that it could not spool to more than 2psi. So if you're using anything from a VF40 to a VF48 or VF52, the stock banjo bolt you will need. Even for my Blouch, I can still use the stock banjo bolt.

For the holes mating up question, just hold thje bolt in the your hand along with your NEW copper crush washer slipped onto it, and then insert it into the -AN fitting to see that the "hole" is at the same height as the groove in the -AN fitting.

The hole in the bolt does NOT need to match the hole in the -AN fitting........... only needs to be the same height so that oil flows out of the line and into the groove, and then from the groove into the bolt.

^Yeah taking the turbo out is a requirement. And.......... from hard learned experience, when you get the lines routed Ok, just loosely tighten everythign down and then simply place the turbo back onto the uppipe to see there are no fitment issues with how you routed things. Then go back and make any corrections needed and bolt the car back together.

Then remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the car for like 30 seconds to get oil flowing into the turbo before you actually start the car. If you don't prme the turbo then you will KILL the turbo. I also found that when priming the turbo that I accidentally forgot to torque down the banjo bolt on the turbo and I lost maybe 1/4 quart of sythetic oil..... ran down the turbo, the uppipe, and pooled up under the car. VERY important to look for these leaks before actually starting the car.

Unlike Ford's, Subies are build like a Swiss watch......... they work great but when somethings out of spec, look out!

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Source: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1932896

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